L.E.G.I.O.N.N.A.I.R.E AIRSOFT TEAM

[decipher]

AEG MOSFET - ACTIVE BRAKING SYSTEM DO IT YOURSELF (DIY) INFORMATIONS & INSTRUCTIONS[/B]

What is AEG MOSFET and Active Braking System?

Interactive MOSFET and Active Braking Guide
Courtesy of PsyphyerVII (The great Mosfet Master of AEG): It was created by PsyphyerVII and posted at Airsoft Mecahnics to help people that have limited knowledge in electronics and understand the purpose of these devices

Interactive MOSFET and Active Braking Guide
« on: May 28, 2007, 08:10:26 PM »

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1889/mosfetpr3.swf (Flash 8 required)

Point your cursor at the Diagram selection and select from the 3 choices then move your cursor at the Trigger Picture and start clicking just like activating your AEG Trigger.

The development platform started at the forum discussion at Airsoft Mechanics dated Dec. 27, 2006 by RiotSC, PsypherVII, Gandolf, Jay, Bench, K-man

What is the SW-AB-LONG? - designed by Terry Fritz (Gandolf)

The SW-AB- is a MOSFET switch designed to remove the high current load from the standard AEG mechanical switch. It has an active motor break circuit to bring the motor to a stop very quickly. The LONG version is designed to fit into the fuse area of many guns and the switch has its own built-in resettable 20 amp thermal fuse. Two #16 12 inch battery wires, two #16 24 inch motor wires, and two #20 24 inch trigger switch wires are pre-attached to the PC board.

Specifications:
Size = 0.6 x 0.5 x 2.0 inches
Fuse Current = 20 Amps
Voltage = 8 to 16 VDC
Peak Current = 160 Amps
Active breaking time = 100mS

Features:
1. Full active breaking that is gentle enough not to harm the motor but still stops the motor very quickly.
2. Fully assembled, production tested.
3. Built in 20 amp automatically resetting thermal fuse.
4. All wires supplied and attached to the PC board.
5. Built in heatsink.
6. The MOSFETs are fully protected against voltage spikes from the motor.
7. It is almost impossible to cross conduct the MOSFETs.
8. Fully protected against static discharge.
9. Advanced break timing circuit.
10. The circuit draws no current when not triggered.
11. The trigger circuit needs considerable current to turn on preventing false firing from condensation, grease, etc.
12. Uses surface mount parts to minimize size.
13. Very tolerant of bad wiring, bad layout, noise, etc.
14. Failure of the active breaking MOSFET can't turn the gun uncontrollably on.
15. New low heating trip circuit prevents damage under very long term short circuit conditions

Can I build the SW-AB-LONG myself?
Absolutely! The concept behind the SW-AB-LONG is completely open source. All plans and schematics are available free of charge from Terry Fritz ( Gandolf) website or you can follow the following Do It Yourself (DIY) instruction below:

How to make SW-AB-LONG?
All information below came from Terry Fritz and Jomarx of Brotherhood of AUG (BOA)


Schematic Diagram:


Parts list:


Printed Circuit Board:


Parts placement:


Polyfuse Placement:


Soldered parts
Pictures front and back before Polyfuse fuse is added


The #16 red wire is added to the board next and the excess clipped off:


½ inch heat shrink about ¼ inch long is shrunk to the fuse pad them so they don’t get damaged contacting other components. You can buy those heat shrink on any electronic shop and usually in the Philippines its color black or brown. You can also use the transparent heat shrink used in packing batteries.


The leads of the fuses are bent to go into the holes in front and bent straight up in back.


The back leads are held together and soldered to hold then in place.


The front leads are soldered in well and the excess leads on the bottom are clipped off.


A piece of #18 solid wire with 0.8 inches of insulation and a long bare lead on one end is made.


The short lead is soldered into the board well. Clip off the little end.


The long part of the wire is wrapped around the two fuse leads and soldered as far down as possible. The excess fuse wires sticking up are clipped off


A 24 inch black #16 wire and a 26 inch piece of #20 yellow wire are soldered to one end well.


On the other side, 24 inches of #16 res and #16 black along with #20 red is soldered on well. Clip off the excess ends of the wires.


All soldering is now complete ! So the water soluble flux is rinsed away under hot water.


A 2 inch long piece of 1/8 inch heat shrink is added around the yellow trigger wire.


The wires are bent down and routed as shown below:


3/4 inch heat shrink is added to complete the unit. It’s now complete and ready for testing.


Typical AEG Wiring Diagrams:


Installation Diagram:


It is best to twist the battery, motor, and trigger switch wires where possible which vastly reduces electrical noise


Enjoy! Hope this help the Filipino Airsoft community.

Credit goes to Sir CLYVZ... From FAS...
Thank you for sharing...
_________________